WIP: Lady Grey Tailoring Part I

Tailoring Part I - The Front




I'm a little behind in the Lady Grey Sew-Along... especially since it's now over. :) Gertie is truly amazing and has done some wonderful posts for this sew-along!! I think for the first couple of weeks of October I just stared at her posts because they were so wonderful (and a little overwhelming). After all this staring and watching her post one tutorial after another, I finally decided to give it a go.

{Warning: this is a long picture filled post!}

Basting the side fronts:
Here's Gertie's first tailoring post. I did things slighty out of order from her posts, too.

Supplies: silk thread, needle, and beeswax

I did practice my basting stitches using unwaxed silk thread, waxed silk thread, and pressed waxed silk thread. The winter white wool is a little too light so, I'm underlining it with a bamboo/rayon muslin. This makes my side front piece three layers; wool, underlining, and hair canvas. I was afraid that the three layers would make it difficult, but it didn't at all.



The knotted thread is the plain silk thread. I did notice a huge difference between the unwaxed and waxed silk thread. However, I didn't notice a difference between the pressed and unpressed thread. So, I proceed without pressing. If you would to see a tutorial on pressing waxed there, Casey has a wonderful one here.

My progress... only a couple of lines done here...


Bound Buttonholes

Supplies: silk organza, interfacing
Notes: This was my first time trying this type of buttonhole. I did add interfacing to the "lips" to give it more structure & support. I didn't baste the lips, which made it slightly shift on one of the final ones, but other than that it's not too bad. It looks like they got better with each try.

Test buttonhole: the ugly


First buttonhole: a little crooked


Second buttonhole: just right



Tailoring the Front
Gertie's post I
Gertie's post II

Catchstitching





More basting and the roll line:
Supplies: linen tape



Padstitching:
I know it's difficult to see, but here are my padstitches. I had a hard time trying to figure out how to sew perpendicular to the line and still get a diagonal stitch... I guess I couldn't figure it out in my head until actually just did it.



I didn't pin the lapel down as I rolled and padstitched, which made the hair canvas shift a lot. I'm not sure how this will affect the lapel in the finished product but I don't feel like unpicking and redoing it especially when I have another one to do. :P


Overall, I'm super excited about all the new techniques I've learned and learning. I've done most of my handstitching on my daily commute to work on the bus and have grown quite fond of handstitching in general. I'm not sure when I'll be done with my coat but up next is the back side seams, pockets, and sleeves.

WIP: Lady Grey Muslin

The Muslin Stage



Fabric: White cotton twill from fabric.com back in 2008 @ $3.50/yd (I think I used about 2.5 yds)


Notes: This is my first official time I've made a muslin (I made one other muslin a few months ago but it's not even done), and I'm enjoying the process very much. I don't know if I'd make a muslin for every garment I make since it's rather involved, but I'll definitely consider it for my more expensive fabric and complicated patterns.


Steps: Aside from the pattern tracing and cutting, I followed Gertie's muslin steps. Here's a simple breakdown.... this is more for my reference in the future.

1. Extend seam allowance to 1".
2. Thread trace seam lines.
3. Baste pieces together.
4. Press seam and hem allowances.

It looks kind of weird just hanging here... it looks much better on, but you can see the 1" seam allowances and the thread traced seam lines.

The Result:



I didn't hem or pin the hem allowance all the way so you can see bits of hanging out... oops!

Conclusion: I'm satisfied with the result and it doesn't look like I need to make any changes as far as I can see. Do you notice any draglines or adjustments I may need? Please let me know if you do! The lighting does make it difficult to see any draglines, too... The only thing I need to work on is setting in sleeves... I've never been good at this, and I want to perfect it for this project... do you think that will be too difficult?

Lady Grey Sew-A-Long

Along with many others, I'm participating in the Lady Grey Sew-Along that's hosted by Gertie. I'm not very good at sticking to a SWAP (see I trailed off or has just been left hanging my Summer Sewing Essentials, 2009 Fall Wardrobe, and 2009 Summer SWAP)... I apparently have some committment issues, but I'm going to do everything I can to stick with this one.  ^_^



Pattern: Lady Grey by Colette Patterns
Fabric: winter white 100% wool from Joann @ $12.50/yd, silky watercolor flowers from Joann @ $7.00/yd




These pictures are Sarai's (she is the owner of Colette Patterns) pictures from here.

I just fell in love with pattern when it was released... isn't just beautiful?! I was determined to find the right winter white wool for it, too. When I was at Metro Textiles, Kashi pulled a lot of winter white wools for me but they ended up being either too yellow, too thin, or too thick. I know I know... I was being super picky, but I knew if I wasn't happy with the fabric I wouldn't use it or worse I wouldn't like the finished garment after all that work. Believe me, I had been looking for the "perfect" fabric for quite some time now.

I thought it was a hopeless cause and maybe should use something I already had in my stash... but lo and behold the fabric I was looking for was at my local Joann!



Now with my fabric choices set, I'm pretty excited about the sew-along. Plans for the weekend are pre-treating my fabric, finding something in my stash to use as muslin, and tracing the pattern. I'm also creating a Fall 2010 SWAP around my Lady Grey coat... but you know how those SWAPs go... nevertheless I love planning! Have a great weekend!

FO: Simplicity 2886 - The Sundress

I made this dress to wear to my little brother's graduation. It's a nice cotton sundress that was perfect for the Texas heat. I think it looks like a little girl's (around the age of 5) dress due to my fabric choices. It's cute, but I'm not sure it suits me... it's growing on me and the husband likes it. I've already worn it out in public twice in less than 2 weeks so that's a good sign. This also the first completed item for my Summer Essentials Sewalong. :)



Pattern: Simplicity 2886
Fabric: Amy Butler's Lotus Collection Lacework in brown (main) and pink cotton (contrasting) both of which were from my stash :)



Modifications:

1. No elastic in the back bodice... used 2 darts instead to remove gaping.
2. Used bodice from view C and skirt from view A.
3. Used a 2" hem allowance.

Recommendations:

1. Sew the pintucks down... otherwise you'll it will look uneven and you'll have to iron it every time and it will still look like this:

2. Don't wait until the end to insert straps like it says in the instructions.
3. Be careful with markings and the curves.
4. Pins are your friends. :) I don't normally use very many of them, but they definitely helped on this one.

Please ignore my funny facial expression. I did have a picture where I was smiling, but it looks like I accidentally deleted it thinking that this was the correct one... boo! There's also some wrinkling due to wear. :)




I love the pleating on the skirt, which isn't too noticeable with my busy print, and the pockets on this dress! I do recommend this pattern... it makes for a great sundress.

Currently in progress:
- Kwik Sew 2689... pieces cut out and partially sewn


- Burda 02-2010-104... traced

Summer Essentials Sew-Along

Ali from the wardrobe, reimagined is hosting a "Summer Essentials Sew-Along" that I've decided to join. Click here for more info.



Here's what I have imagined for my summer sewing so far...


Poolside Pretties:
Kwik Sew 2689 - swimsuit

Amy Butler's Modern Diaper Bag from Little Stitches - beach bag


Clamdiggers & Co:
Simplicity 4135

Sailor pants - NL6190 & Sailor in Burmuda mash


Sweet & Sassy Skirts:
Burda 02-2010-104


The Sundress:
Simplicity 2886 - Completed 6/3/10 (Post on this in the making...)
Infinity Dress
Vogue 1086
Burda 04-2010-116


Tees, Tunics, & Blouses:
McCall 5977
Self-drafted halter


Those Summer Nights:
Simplicity 3538 - JCrew Fiona modification
Burda 04-2010-117

 What can I say... I love to plan! Who knows what I'll actually finish, but my goal is to have at least one item from each category. This will be my composite page for this sew-along.

FO: New Look 6470 Cowl Tank

New Look 6470 is one of the first patterns I purchased probably back in 2006... before I even took sewing lessons.  I took a stab at the skirt trying to teach myself how to sew... I didn't know there was a difference between woven and knit and that sewing pattern sizes are different than ready to wear sizes.  No wonder I was frustrated and decided to take sewing lessons a year later.

Well I didn't make or finish the skirt , but I did make view B, which is the cowl neck tank. It's only 2 pieces!! That's crazy!! :) This is a super easy tank, and I made it with the remnants from my recent Simplicity 3503 dress... yay for more stash busting. (I'm trying really hard not to acquire any new fabric and just use my huge stash... it's really hard with all the pretty fabric and spring inspiration.) I like how the two pieces fit on my left over fabric... I thought I wasn't going to be able to use it.


Picture taken at a church tennis tournament and it was super sunny. I was obviously not playing... I was the event photographer. :)

I would totally recommend this pattern. There are over 30 reviews of it on Pattern Review, and it's still available... it's not out of print based on the Simplicity website and some of the reviews are dated from 2005. I do want to make some of the other views, too.

Some notes on this pattern:

1. I usually go one size down on Big 4 patterns, but based on the finished measurements I decided to go with my intended measured size. It is fit perfectly! Hehehe.. I guess they knew thing to two about a little less ease back then. :)
2. The pattern does not have instructions to finish the raw edges. I don't mind this too much and it can be easily accommodated.  I did not spend the extra time to make the edges pretty because I wanted to finish before I went to bed. Overall, I think this pattern from tracing to sewing only took me a couple of hours to make.
3. I love how versatile this top is! I can be dressy or casual.
4. I added fusible hem tape to stabilize the fabric before I stitched.  I also added fusible hem tape to the neckline in order to keep the edge from flipping out.
5. This is my SMOT #2!

FO: Simplicity 4539 Top

I joined the Spring Month of Tops hosted by Faye. There are lots of great tops already posted on the blog. You should check out if you haven't already. Here's my first top for the month.

Pattern: Simplicity 4539 (out of print - OOP) view E
Fabric: from stash - melon spandex jersey from fabric.com @ $2.49/yd (ordered 3/25/08) Yay for stash busting!



Below are some mistakes I made that could've been avoided if I went with my gut instinct.

1. I read the cutting layout incorrectly and did not cut the front and back pieces on the correct grain. (i.e. there's no stretch across the width.) I even though I thought it was incorrect while I was cutting it, but didn't think to double check.  
2. I put on the collar inside out. As I was pinning the collar, I thought that I should baste it first, but decided I was too lazy and just serged. (By the way, pinning fabric for the serger is different than pinning for the sewing machine... in case you didn't know. I don't want anyone ruining his/her serger.) I should've just basted, then I could of redone the collar.  From the picture above, you can tell that the collar seam will be visible from the outside.
3. Even though I pinned the collar, some of the front fabric bunched up along the collar seam. You can see it better in the picture below.

Despite all the mistakes, I still like the shirt and will still wear it.  Because of the incorrect layout it's a little tight across the bust and back.  You can see how it pulls and bunches across those areas.





Below are changes that I made and some recommendations:

1. I didn't hem the top. I have a rather short torso and I liked the length without it being hemmed. Next time, I'll lengthen the top and top it. If you have regular or long torso, I would definitely recommend lengthen the pieces.
2. My side seams were only 3/8" because there was no stretch, and it was going to be a little too tight with 5/8" seams.
3. I didn't hem the collar... just because I didn't think it was necessary and I was being lazy.
4. Double check and make sure you're cutting on the right grain.
5. Go with your gut instincts!! :)

I think it's a great basic pattern. There's only 3 pattern pieces to this view, and it's SUPER easy. I will definitely be making this again... maybe again this month. :)

MOT #1, 2

There hasn't been much sewing going on this month... it's been pretty busy at work and no working sewing machine.  I started two Simplicity 2601 tops, but I'm waiting on my sewing machine before I can finish it.

I wanted to contribute to the MOT sew-a-long hosted by Faye so I did what I could... serging and hand sewing.  I used T-shirt Makeovers by the Sistahs of Harlem.

I made two tops from this book... a one shoulder tank and ruffled tank.  Here are the book versions of the tops.

The ruffled tank took some hand sewing, but it wasn't too bad.  The instructions are pretty straight forward.

I'm wearing the one-shoulder tank with a long-sleeve, which I don't think I'll pair together when I actually wear the tank.  Instead of doing the "ribbon" I cut-off the bottom of the shirt and serged it to the top of shirt.

I enjoyed refashioning my t-shirts.  I think I'll try a few of the other tops in the book as well.  Overall, the book has a lot of great ideas, but I don't think I could pull off a lot of the tops... some of them are backless and/or very cropped.  I like some of the ideas, but I'll have to re-work them so they are less skin revealing...

*Please ignore the white spots on my head in the photos... I'm not sure what that's from and I didn't want to edit it.

November Tops

Faye is hosting "The Months of Tops" sew-a-long, and I've decided to join in.  I'm always in need of tops and I haven't made too many of them.  I just cut out Simplicity 2601 in a black silk charmeuse, which is also part of my fall wardrobe.  (However, I've never sewn with silk so this should be an interesting experience.)  Here's the envelope front.

I'm not sure if this counts, but I have some unfinished tops that I plan to finish.  One is the above pattern in an Amy Butler quilting cotton print.  I also need to finish a Butterick 5100 tunic.

Along with all the above tops here are the others I plan on making this month.  (They're part of the fall wardrobe plan, too.)

New Look 6831

Vogue 2980

Simplicity 2756

It looks like I have my work cutout for me.  On top of these tops my youth group is having a musical and I'm overseeing the costume/make-up team.  We need to finish the costumes for dress rehearsal this Sunday... eek!  I hope we don't have too many left... I need to re-tally all that we have.

Simplicity 2603 Sew-A-Long

There's a Simplicity 2603 Cardi Sew Along at PatternReview.com that I decided to join. This is for a DKNY Cozy knock-off.

Here is a picture of the DKNY Cozy from their website:

Here's a picture of the Simplicity 2603 pattern:

I have a black rayon jersey that'll be perfect for this. Now I just need wash the fabric and cut-out the pattern... this is so exciting! The sweater is $195, and I spent <$35 for the fabric and pattern. :)